The Life of the Palate, The Life of the Mind

Tuesday, October 30. All morning it has been alternating periods of sun, then clouds, then sun, then clouds, then sun; such a changeable sky. I had planned to stay in all day, catching up on blog, but the sun keeps tempting me outside. Finally decide on excursion to the southern part of the 14th.

On my way to the RER, I pass the l'Hotel de Dieu de Paris smack dab in the middle of Ile de la Cite. Of course, on other occasions, I've walked around every other side of this huge hospital but this is the first time I walk directly in front of the entrance. I read the little Histoire de la Ville de Paris sign out front and learn that it was founded in 651. Now that's amazing. Signs out front indicate its six areas of specialty (I didn't write them down). I wander inside (if asked, I'm planning to say that I want to give blood as there's a drive going on!) and there's a huge courtyard on the other side. There's a doorway out to the courtyard and directly outside the door is a garden with small trimmed hedges and some flowering shrubs, the typical manicured French garden. There are three terraces above the garden level culminating in a Greek temple affair. There are double rows of arcades along each side, the lower ones open and the upper ones enclosed. It's stunning. And completely hidden away.

When I come out, however, it's raining so I think maybe I'll postpone my excursion. I start back towards my apartment and stop in one of the little tourist shops to try to find an umbrella sporting the black cat. (On this trip to Paris, I've been taken by the Henri de Toulouse Lautrec poster for Chat Noir, reproductions of which are everywhere and on everything. My first day here, I bought a mouse pad, a tea towel and a magnet. Now I'm getting the umbrella as the small rainbow-striped umbrella that I brought with me has fallen apart.)

OK, so get this, I come out of the shop after looking around and finally buying umbrella to find that the sun has come out again! So it's off to the 14th and the Parc Montsouris after all. It's a good thing I'm flexible! I get on the RER B to the Cite Universite station. When I come out, I'm directly in front of a tramway stop. I've heard about the tramway before but hadn't seen it. Apparently, it goes (or will when it's completed) around the city, following in general the automobile pereipherique. It's primarily intended to help residents get around, not tourists. This city just doesn't stop with the public transportation ideas.

Parc Montsouris. Yet another beautiful Parisian park en style anglaise complete with lake, waterfalls and a children's playground. Signs on the lawns read: Pelouse au Repos Hivernal: 15 octobre 2007 - 15 avril 2008 so no sitting on the grass today. Men industriously leaf raking and, for the first time, I see (and hear) one with a leaf blower. There is a meteorological station in this park.

Today, it is a symphony in green and yellow with even a few red leaves thrown in for good measure. There are beautiful clumps of chrysanthemums and plots of brightly-colored primroses (the kind that we are used to seeing in the spring). I see bright purple berries on a pale green bush, bright red berries on a dark green bush (not holly, not evergreen) and later a bush with orange berries! The wrought iron fence around the park is painted blue (almost purple).

Rue du Parc du Montsouris. A lovely street with ivy-covered houses, many of brick (3 photos).

Rue Georges-Braque. Interesting cubist houses on this street. The one formerly inhabited by Braque looks like it needs some work.

Square de Montsouris. Again, a lovely street, but unfortunately the entire street is dug up for water line repair.

Along Avenue Reille, there is a reservoir behind a big stone wall with a grassy embankment above. There's a man walking along the top, cleaning out what appear to be "gutters." Even reservoirs collect leaves. At street level, there is a row of plantings about 18" deep so pedestrians are not just walking along beside a blank wall.

Cite Universite. On the other side of the Blvd Jourdan from the Parc Montsouris is this 34 hectare, residential "city" which houses more than 5,000 university students in Paris. It was founded on the eve of WW I to bring together students from around the world. There is a motley collection of architecture, as each country is responsible for designing its own and of course each building reflects the culture of that country. Many were built in the 50s and haven't aged well, either physically or aesthetically. I like the Japanese building a lot (photo). More on this later.

The sun has been shining almost continuously in a bright blue sky since I've arrived in the 14th although clouds of many hues (from white to dark grey) are blowing around. I get back on the RER at Cite Universite for the trip home. The next stop is Denfert-Rochereau, and when the doors open, I swear it is literally pouring rain on the quai (this part of the line is above ground) so I'm happy I still have my umbrella. However, by the time I'm back at St Michel, the streets are wet but the rain has stopped! What a crazy weather day. Back to my apt to get ready for dinner and the theatre.

Dinner at Grizzli Cafe: Salade endive roquefort et noix, assiette du pecheur avec gratin de courgettes. they must use LaVazza coffee because they have coffee cups with logo. No time for dessert as I'm off to:

La Comedie Francaise to see Moliere's Le Malade Imaginaire. More on this later but in a word it is fabulous. huge theatre, no amplification. actors can be heard even when they whisper on stage. there's a young girl in the play and her cousin, age 6 and 1/2 is sitting right behind me! (I find this out at the end.) The house is virtually full and there are lots of parents with children. The theater is truly alive and well and living in Paris.

Back to Grizzli Cafe for dessert: riz au lait facon grand-mere, not to be missed! A wonderful day: my taste buds and my mind are both in states of perfect delight. Ah, Paris: The life of the palate, the life of the mind. An unbeatable combination.