Camille comes from 10-12. We work on verb tenses and a number of other difficulties. This is going to be great because I can save up all my questions (about things I read or see) and he can answer them! My very own personal French language consultant.
After lunch, I find the post office at Place de l'Hotel de Ville to buy some stamps. I also try to make a photocopy of my COBRA election form (to continue my dental insurance) because I need to mail it by the end of the month, but the copier there isn't working. Rats.
There are some peaceful "manifestations" going on in the Place de l'Hotel de Ville, apparently having to do with immigration issues (what I can figure out from the signs because I can't understand any of the French that's coming out of the bullhorn!).
Pont des Arts. I continue down r. de Rivoli all the way to the Louvre and the Pont des Arts. This is the only pedestrian bridge in Paris and it crosses the river between the Louvre and the Institut de France (home of all those stuffy people at the Academie Francaise who are trying to maintain the French language in it's "pure" state. of course, not only does this "pure" state not exist, it's a hopeless occupation because all languages evolve over time. duh. French has English and Anglo-Saxon words in it from waaayyy back.).
Saint-Germain l'Auxerois. After hanging around the bridge for awhile, I pop into this lovely church across from the back of the Louvre to continue my continual expression of gratitude by saying "thank you, thank you, thank you" in every church I pass. I've never been here before but there are some extraordinary stained glass windows, especially three smaller ones which are behind the altar (the three above the alter aren't so shabby either). There is also a fabulous Tryptiche Mariel showing scenes from the life of Mary. Some portions of it are painted and some are carved wood.
Outside the church are two lovely gardens that conceal entrances to an underground parking garage. Very clever. There is also an art exhibit in the tiny Salle du Beffroi of the church.
Carrousel du Louvre. I walk around to the side of the Louvre and pass under one of the doorways and into the Cour Carre which is undergoing a temporary installation for something: du 18-22 octobre, la FIAC s'installe dans la Cour Caree. Then through another passageway and out into the main "square" between the two "arms" of the Louvre where the pyramid is installed. I love the pyramid, and I love the successful marriage of the old and the new. Although there are people around, it is definitely not crowded as it must be in the summer. I keep walking until I reach the l'Arc du Triomphe du Carrousel (the "little" Arc du Triomphe) and the underground entrance to the Louvre and the conglomeration of museum and boutiques there. This is an amazing space but more later.
I find the Virgin mega-store (and yes, they say "mega-store" in French!) which is where I pick up my ticket to see Le Diner de Cons later this month. It's a huge (dare I say "mega") store with DVDs, CDs, school supplies, greeting cards, and lots of books. I'm perusing the books (what else?) when my cell phone rings, and it's Banning asking if I want to meet for coffee. When I tell her where I am, we agree to meet at the metro station "Palais Royal/Musee du Louvre" which is close by. I emerge from my subterranean wanderings into the daylight and walk to the metro stop. Juste en face is the gorgeous Palais Royal and to the left there is a restaurant (Brasserie du Louvre) with an outdoor terrace so I install myself in one of the chairs, order an Orangina and un carafe d'eau and wait for Banning to arrive! Quel plaisir. We talk for a long time over glasses of wine (which follows the Orangina and water that have quenched my thirst) until she has to leave to meet a friend.
I cross the street to see the Louvre and its pyramid one more time. Every time it's different, reflecting the sun, the clouds and the sky. It's about 6 p.m. now, and the setting sun behind golden clouds is reflecting off of some of the windows of the Louvre. I try to catch it in a photograph, but the picture will be only a reminder for me of the actual experience of being there. Some things just can't be photographed. I also take a picture of the Louvre itself, a symphony in grey with dark clouds behind it.
Palais Royal. I continue my walk around to the side of the Palais Royal, past La Comedie Francaise where I see that Le Malade Imaginaire is opening this week. There's an amazing little store called Noxa that carries nothing but the classic French lead soldiers and such that look like playthings for children but are actually toys for grown-ups! In addition to literally hundreds of soldiers, there's a group from the story of Alice in Wonderland, a group from Egypt, a creche, and many others, all hand-painted lead figurines. You could spend a lifetime collecting all these things, and some people probably do. I hang a right into the gardens of the Palais Royal, so classically French. The trees are shaved so they are perfectly square (or rectangular). Amusing. The garden is surrounded with arcades sheltering high-end boutiques and galleries. I'd like to come back to one: Le Prince Jardinier. A fabulous gardening shop.
Galerie Vivienne. I leave the garden by the Rue Vivienne in order to walk through the beautiful Galerie Vivienne. Now this is my kind of shopping mall.
I wander around a few little streets, passing by Notre Dame des Victoires (too late to go in - it's about 7 p.m. now - almost dark) and arrive at the Place des Victoires. A lovely circle, unified in terms of architecture, smaller and less imposing than the Place Vendome, bien sur, but every bit as lovely, a mon avis! I head down the r. Croix des Petits Chanps tothe r. Coquillere(home of Dehillerin), past Saint Eustache, cut through Les Halles (I'm back in the 'hood!) and end up at
my favorite cafe, the Grizzli, for dinner. The wait staff is beginning to know me!
Dinner at Grizzli Cafe: gambas en brochette avec riz sauvage et ananas, tarte aux pommes (superb!); no wine because feeling slightly headachey - I think from sitting around so many people smoking.
Pedometer 14,345. Weather overcast, no rain, a little sun. high 68-70 and slightly muggy.
Buy ticket on-line to see La Malade Imaginaire at La Comedie Francaise. "only" 37 euros. woohoo.
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