Ile St Louis. We walk around this lovely (primarily residential) island with a lovely shopping street down the middle. It's Monday so most of the shops are closed. However, we stop into a tiny shop called L'Epicerie where Jay and Richard stock up on mustard and jam. The lovely young shopkeeper, in the course of conversation about how wonderful it is to live in Paris, says "yes, but I'm nervous all the time." "Why," we ask. "Because I'm French," she says! How funny is that! Jay points out two good places to eat: Auberge de la Reine Blanche and Le Relais de L'Isle. We stand on the bridge between the two islands to admire the view of the city and of the back of Notre Dame and to say "au revoir." Jay and Richard are off to Venice.
Back to Arenes de Lutece. I walk over to 5th and hop on the metro from Maubert Mutualite to Cardinal Lemoine. It's only one stop but in the 15 minutes I'm in the metro (from about 12:30 to 12:45) the sun disappears. When I emerge, the sky has changed from bright blue to completely overcast. We told Richard and Jay they had brought LA weather to Paris; now it seems as though they have taken it with them! Continue on to Arenes de Lutece to copy down what's written on the plaque. Here it is:
C'est ici qu'a pris naissance au deuxieme siecle de notre ere la vie municipale de Paris. Dix mille hommes peuvent tenira l'aise dans les Arenes de Lutece ou les joutes nautiques succedaient aux luttes de gladiateurs. Les combats de fauves a la representation des comedies et des drames.
Passant songe devant ce premier monument de Paris. Que la ville du passe est aussi la cite de l'avenir et celles de tes espoirs.
Don du Syndicat d'Initiatives des Arenes de Lutece a l'occasion du Bi-Millenaire de Paris. 1951
Texte de Jean Paulhan.
Rough Translation: Here, in the 2nd century, the city life of Paris was born. Ten thousand men could relax in the Arena where battles between gladiators gave way to nautical combat and then to the theatre of comedy and tragedy. As you pass before this oldest monument of Paris, remember that the city of the past is also the city of the future as well as the city of your dreams. Given by the Syndicat d'Initiative on the occasion of the 2000th (bi-millenial) anniversary of the birth of Paris. 1951. (and we think it's a big deal in the US to celebrate a bi-centennial!)
Historical Note: The Romans took over the island of Lutetia (the present day Ile de la Cite) from the Parisii in 52 B.C.
Le Pantheon. Since I'm not far (and since it's been several decades since I've been here), I decide to walk over to the Pantheon. The original building was a church built to hold the remains of Saint Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, as well as those of Clovis and his wife, Clothile. It is now a civic temple and the final resting place of preeminent French men and women: writers, philosophers, scientists and other people who have played an important role in the life of France. From the steps in front, there's a great view of the Eiffel Tower down the Rue Soufflot (named after the architect of the Pantheon). Apart from the Pantheon itself, the Place du Pantheon is quite imposing what with a huge library (the Bibliotheque Ste Genevieve, the law school (Faculte de Droit) and the Mairie of the 5th surrounding it.
Le Pantheon. Since I'm not far (and since it's been several decades since I've been here), I decide to walk over to the Pantheon. The original building was a church built to hold the remains of Saint Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, as well as those of Clovis and his wife, Clothile. It is now a civic temple and the final resting place of preeminent French men and women: writers, philosophers, scientists and other people who have played an important role in the life of France. From the steps in front, there's a great view of the Eiffel Tower down the Rue Soufflot (named after the architect of the Pantheon). Apart from the Pantheon itself, the Place du Pantheon is quite imposing what with a huge library (the Bibliotheque Ste Genevieve, the law school (Faculte de Droit) and the Mairie of the 5th surrounding it.
One of the first things I see is in fact the only thing I remember clearly from having been here before: a plaque on the wall to the memory of Antoine de St Exupery who disappeared during a reconnaissance flight during the war. The first time I was here, I had just read Le Petit Prince as well as Wind, Sand and Stars, and the memorial made me cry.
Down in the crypt are the tombs of Voltaire, Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Alexandre Dumas, Emile Zola, Andre Malraux, and Pierre and Marie Curie. Marie Curie is the first woman to be interred here (and as far as I can tell, the only woman so far, not counting the wife of another scientist, Marcellin Berthelot, who died one hour after her husband). The remains of Marie and Pierre Curie were transferred here in 1995.
There's a video showing TV footage of some of the transfer ceremonies. The most moving is the 2002 transfer of the remains of Alexandre Dumas (1802-1870), 132 years after his death. In a solemn processional, six Republican Guards carry his coffin to the Panthéon. Draped in a blue-velvet cloth inscribed with the Musketeers' motto: "Un pour tous, tous pour un" ("One for all, all for one,") and accompanied by three riders dressed as Musketeers, the remains were transported from their original interment site in Aisne, France.
The Pantheon is interesting as a monument but it's a cold and gloomy place, especially in the crypt.
St Etienne du Mont. This lovely church with a highly original facade is beside the Pantheon. It has the only remaining roodscreen in all of Paris. There is a chapel dedicated to Ste Genevieve, and her sarcophagus stone is encased in a shrine.
Lycee Henri IV. Since 1796, this school has been located in what is left of the Abbaye de Ste Genevieve. Only the refectory and the bell tower remain. I go in, and the guards let me step inside the courtyard to take a look and a couple of photos.
St Julien le Pauvre. As I walk back through the quartier, I pass this tiny church for the upteenth time and today I decide to go in. It is the oldest church in Paris and surely one of the smallest. I love it.
Noted on walk:
-there's a public scale in the little park beside Notre Dame. I've never noticed it before. I'm going to try it out one of these days! It costs 0,20 euros.
-I see a poster for Yourte.com, an ad for yurts! you can even try it out: Testez une nuit. Yourte-and-breakfast! I guess if you go to their website, you can sign up to stay overnight in one.
-some interesting buildings on little streets along the Left Bank quai across from Notre Dame including a restaurant Au Vieux Paris that looks good (or at least intriguing. it's website is: wildwomanwildfood.com
-on the Ile de la Cite, a slender young gypsy woman saying in a pleading voice "do you speak english." Do not respond to this; it's a scam. While you're trying to help, her accomplice steals your wallet.
back to the 4th. bakery. market. home. pedometer: 13,052.
No comments:
Post a Comment